Paris, Beauty and Flavors
Margaret Anderson said: “Paris is the city in which I love living. Sometimes I think that this is because it is the only city in the world where it is enough to make a step out from a railway station, the Gare d’Orsay, and see, simultaneously, the main spells: the Seine River with its bridges and stalls, the Louvre, Notre Dame, the gardens of the Tuileries, Place de la Concorde and the beginning of the Champs Elysees. In other words almost everything except the Luxembourg Gardens and the Royal Palace. But what other city offers so much when it drops from a train?”
In reality probably she was right, and is just down from one station to the other of the metro to visit that I and Fabrizio in the latter trip made to Paris we discovered many niches really try.
This time there was not an itinerary well defined, Paris is a city that both Fabrizio that I know quite well, there was simply the desire to spend a few days in the French capital and unintentionally we regrouped to do a “food tour “ and to rediscover a city that from this point of view, really has to offer much.
Paris was always very open to culinary contamination but always had in mind its history, is a city where if you quit out from the usual practice of Bistrot that were born here, you can find choice to suit all pockets and especially to all palates.
Surely the fact that The Hoxton Paris ( https://thehoxton.com/paris/paris/hotels ), the hotel where we were staying and of which we are going to speak to you about in detail between a few days because it deserves a separate chapter has helped us in the discovery of the many local. Situated in the zone Operà/Bourse (the district around the Opéra and the Bourse is a paradise of the Belle Epoque, composed of large avenues, refined arches and popular entertainment in stileArt Nouveau) has allowed us to walk very walk but especially to be able to take the metro in tranquillity for displacements.
Between a ride to Montmartre, with relative climb over the roofs of Paris just so that we do not miss anything and just because Fabrizio you always forget that I suffer from vertigo, a walk to Les Halles in turn to the various vintage shop , the priceless atmosphere of Le Marais and the inevitable visit to the Champs Elysees, the Tuileries gardens look trottole n’t go overboard but this has enabled us to discover to discover the places that we owe you absolutely tell.
Then this time forget the list of museums of the streets rather than the negotiated particular to see but focus on food, this will be our small guide to the flavors of Paris.
Without further ado we begin to let you know the locals that we discovered in these days in Paris, places that are very different from one another, some very elegant and refined, others more cozy and hipster without forgetting tradition with a bistro really particular.
If you want a lunch or a dinner or maybe just have a drink a little off the beaten path usual Parisians, if times enjoy the banks of the seine without the mass of tourists who now populates, here is if you want all this I and Fabrizio we discovered a niche nothing evil Polpo Brasserie ( http://www.polpo-brasserie.fr ).
A bit out of the center of Paris in the zone Levallois-Perret precisely, taking line 3 and descending Pont de Levallois – Bécon you will find moored on the banks of the river a large boat, there you find Polpo Brasserie a place atypical of the Parisian stereotypes but perfectly in line with the requirements of the modernity of the city.
As soon as you arrive you immediately realize what is huge this boat more than 600mq with a 180° view on the Seine.
The decor is fantastic, the staff tells us that it is signed by Laura Gonzalez, bright parquet, chandeliers in wicker of different forms, huge carpets and tapestries from the warm tones make things very welcoming.
This is the floating restaurant biggest in Europe but the spaces that the architect was able to create inside are intimate corner where I can be secluded and tranquil or share if you in many social tables arranged a little everywhere throughout the room, a large angle bar allows stopping here also only for an aperitif.
As soon as you enter you will be immediately greeted by a small waiting room where a small bar and the sofas allow you to wait for comfortable if the table was not yet ready, it drops a few step and immediately spaces become large and the view on the Seine is fantastic.
We were from Polpo Brasserie for lunch menu is quite simple and based on fish, products are always seasonal and are used for dishes apparently simple that hide in reality a kitchen very refined.
And we could not test it this kitchen?! Certain that no and then and we order:
Soupe de poissons, rouille et croûtons
Saumon gravlax mariné à l’aneth
Salades Polpo ( Saumon mariné à l’aneth, crevettes, poulpe, tomates, radis, fenouil, roquette, sucrine )
Poulpe en persillade & chorizo Eric Ospital
All accompanied by Rosé de provence IGP Méditerranée Palm Château de L’Escarelle.
The coffee we get on divanenti of panoramic terrace between the waves of the Seine in a classic gloomy day of Paris.
Marked in agenda because it will be worth it.
Le Petit Rétro
A dinner in the last true Parisian bistros you cannot lose and then as a destination for dinner we choose Le Petit Rétro (http://petitretro.fr) located halfway between the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower in the area Trocadéro.
You can get there very easily by metro taking line 2 descending to the Victor Hugo or as we did, taking line 2 and get off at Trocadéro and becoming a nice walk for about 800mt.
This room there is completely new in reality I and Fabrizio we had already been in another trip but it has almost become a point of reference for us here in the city and we are always pleased to return.
Le Petit Rétro is inaugurated in 1904 as tells us Gregory the current owner (that now there recognizes and exchanges always chatting with us) and is in the list of Historic Places of Paris thanks to its structure remained intact in time. The room is not very large in reality but picks up everything that is the style of the Art Nouveau Parisian. Already from the outside the local immediately appears with that old world charm that only the Parisian bistros know hold in life, just entered seems to return to that which was the atmospheres of a Paris of the early twentieth century. The walls and the ceilings of the house are decorated with terracotta tiles, decorated with floral motifs typical of Art Nouveau, majolica always tells us Gregory produced at the end of the nineteenth century by the Atelier d’Auteuil, created by Charles-Edouard Haviland.
Gregory detects the local in May 2013 but decides to immediately keep intact the spirit of the years 20 and of the Belle Epoque maintaining standards of the typical cuisine of the Parisian bistros.
Le Petit Rétro has a typical cuisine of French tradition, the menu is well structured and what we love both I and Fabrizio, does not occur with a thousand thousand meal but is concentrated in a few french typicality of fish and especially of meat that here is still sewn with methods ” home ” and a wine list very well supplied with ingredients with denomination of controlled origin.
All cheeses are provided by Jean-Yves Bordier one of the last craftsmen of Paris to mix into a kneader of wood, is also the only today that sells butter on request for large chef; produces custom Butter, with moisture and the salt that want, on the basis of the various uses and needs of each.
The evening here from Le Petit Rétro passes with the feeling of being out of time, the kindness of the staff, the suffused lights good music makes everything extremely pleasant.
For dinner we do recommend by Gregory that makes us bring:
Les champignons du marché au sautoir,un bouquetd’herbes fraîches& tuile parmesan
Côtedebœuf«400g» fleurdesel (Guérande&Maldon)
Cocotte de légumes ou bliés (àcru, confits &pochés)
Brioche per due vanille Bourbon& crème anglaise
All accompanied by a fine bottle of Chablis French of course.
The thing that really amazes us every time we come to this local cooking meat always perfect cuisine in an excellent manner with methods that Gregory there reveals , because it tells us ” So next time rounds because you want to understand how we prepare”… and has reason because as soon as you leave the desire to go is immediate.
Born in 1903 from an Austrian pastry chef Antoine Rumpelmayer and has become a great classic of Parisian pastries that high, refined, we are talking of course of Angelina (http://www.angelina-paris.fr/fr/) the tea room for excellence of the French capital.
Is located under the arches of the Rue de Rivoli in the beautiful area between the Louvre the Palais-Royal and in front of the gardens of the Tuileries as soon as you enter this place you suffered an inevitable rendez-vous of what could be the parisian aristocracy; here in these lounges, Proust, Coco Chanel and the largest French couturier were to discuss work or simply to relax in front of a Mont Blanc typical of the home.
The architect who designed the whole is Edouard-Jean Niermans famous during the period of the Belle Epoque and in 2013 it celebrated its 110 years of history.
But if we came here I and Fabrizio the reason is one and only one make a good and classic Parisian breakfast but mainly eat their Mont Blanc (trick preferred Fabrizo).
Here the Mont Blanc is a serious matter and combines meringue, Chantilly cream and cream vermicelli with brown, true delight for the palate (I personally do not love sweets but here I absolutely cannot renounce to eat). Thanks to its unique recipe, the Mont Blanc has become the emblem of the Angelina home and took the name from 1903.
We decide to order a classical breakfast Angelina and a breakfast more healthy, all products that arrive on the table are signed Angelina as usual.
Angelina is now an international trademark and many of his products, tea, sweets, spreads, sweets, jams can be found in the highest food shops of luxury and in all the designer boutiques Angelina present now in many cities of the world like Hong Kong, Dubai, Doha, Tokyo and Beijing.
Present in the menu of the classic breakfast there is also the famous hot chocolate African Angelina, hot chocolate old style, called “Africa”, because it is composed of three cocoa of African origins: Niger, Ghana and Ivory Coast, selected directly from the house as he explains the director of the dining room, which we would like to underline that these cocoa are specially assembled for Angelina and the recipe remains secret. On the confidence we assure you that is a delight.
For a breakfast or a tea here we advise you always to book, has become a mecca for tourists and the hold without reservation could be very long.
A garden suspicion to the 4 floor of a building full of pink in the heart of Pigalle this is the Pink mamma (http://www.bigmammagroup.com/fr/trattorias/pink-mamma).
A walk in a gloomy day in Paris (you will understand that new) area Montmartre you arrive in Pigalle and crosses for the case a palace of tiles all pink that makes corner there incuriosiamo and enter. It is more or less time for lunch and the girl who welcomes us and we will explain a little the situation on the local and we discover that we have entered a local Italian managed by French and Italian to the memo.
Everything is born from the passion of two boys Tigrane French and Victor lovers of Italian cuisine that have always eaten by when they were smaller in coming to Italy with their parents, and from the meeting in Naples with Ciro, with Ramon and Enrico.
The passion of these guys for the popular trattorias leads them to think of open their first Italian restaurant in Paris. They knew that good Italian restaurants here was full but the challenge was to bring the real Italy in Paris, a trattoria 100% italian, which uses products coming directly from Italy and that boast a staff fully Italian both in the kitchen and dining room.
Pink mamma has four floors as we said and each floor has a characteristic , a plan made of pasta, one of cocktails, one is a wood oven and the last the suspended garden the Parisian rooftops (the one chosen by us) which is a Grill.
We opt immediately for dining at the last floor too curious to see the local and try this Italian cuisine. While we go up the four flights of stairs we are immediately taken to watch the walls full of paintings and accessories of any kind. A decor which knows of house or better as one says today cozy, of rest the intent of the owners was this a house of italian food in Paris. In each ramp look premises and seem to us all very well furnished, but as soon as we climb the last ramp is pure magic. The top floor has a ceiling and the floor to ceiling glass views decorated with plants on the huge wooden beams, the view is spectacular and gives maglifici on the roofs of the city. A counter from taste Art Deco adorned with flowers is the backdrop to a room which is very welcoming, laterally to the room we find tables with sofas which give on windows.
The staff very kind is totally Italian and this by the will of the owners who want every dish here is explained and appreciated by the people who know really. The boys just understand that we are the only Italian in room immediately seek to let us taste and suggestions their favorite dishes to know what you think.
We decide to take:
Burrata sea 125gr (with anchovy and bottarga)
Steak Tartare Alberto (with aubergines and shoots of oxalis fresh almonds, salsa chef )
Fish of the Adriatic Sea (baked, sauce with lemon, datterino tomatoes, Taggiasca olives, fresh herbs)
As wine we choose a Prosecco val d’occa revigorantes bulles, Champomy d’abord !
We are concluding the whole with a coffee that for the first time here in Paris we can finally say be good.
We do the compliments to all the staff and certainly by Italians we can say that the kitchen besides being with the freshest ingredients ( the burrata was something exceptional) and really good.
We were not expecting this nice surprise here in Paris, in the sense that every time we travel both i and Fabrizio anyway we want to try the specialities of the place we are not those who seek to force to eat italian everywhere and that the Italian cuisine is the only and unique in the world, but this randomization was well accepted and certainly also here we return to try the atria three floors.
Four Season Hotel George V
Do you think that perfection does not exist, that there are no places refined, elegant but also silent and relaxing? Historical places a certain level where the beauty can be joined to the culinary perfection, this place in Paris exists and is called the Four Seasons Hotel George V (https://www.fourseasons.com/paris/)
5 star hotel located in the area Champs-Élysées, is located inside an Art Deco building of 1928. A sensational structure which gathers all the refinement of this city.
One of the few hotels in the world that therein offer five Michelin stars through three restaurants, Le Cinq ***, Le George * or L’Orangerie *.
Of course it is not a place extremely inexpensive as you can well imagine, but once in your life you have to try the beauty and be pampered in places with unique charm. With Fabrizio we decide to make a reservation for a breakfast in the ” La Galerie “ , this is the heart and soul of the hotel. As soon as you enter the atmosphere is already all focused on Christmas, rarefied enchanting. We arrive at the Salon La Galerie, and the eyes are vastly extended incredulous by beauty, beautiful Flemish tapestries, paintings and furniture of the XIX century, in addition to the many art objects will welcome us in a place from the extraordinary elegance.
Dining room staff very friendly us to sit down and propose to us immediately to taste their specialities. Chef de La Galerie is David Bizet that under the supervision of Christian Le Squer, has started directing the kitchen to offer a new culinary experience French high quality offering dishes with a unique combination of flavors.
We order a Parisian Breackfast which comprises:
choice of fresh fruit juices – orange, grapefruit, carrot, grapes tomato or
selection from the oven: croissants, chocolate croissants, brioches and bakery of the day
and baguette bread seven cereals
jams and honey assorted
Coffee, tea, herbal tea or hot chocolate
to all this the restaurant manager makes us add, because it says that we cannot absolutely not provarele, two eggs to the cocotte with a bottom of foie gras flavored with various spices, call them delight for the palate believe it is little.
We remain in this place for a couple of hours without anyone there disturbances in absolute quietness with background music that originates from the piano room. A jump in the courtyard made a feast from a huge Christmas tree and track it back to reality.
We will definately return to try the local cuisine also of the other three restaurants the Cinq ***, Le George * or L’Orangerie *, but in the meantime you appuntatevi this.
Jadis et gourmande
A walk in the Marais between vintage shops, the Pompidou Center and Les Halles and you find yourself in the heart of a cold Paris in mid November to enter in a chocolate shop very particular Jadis et gourmande ( https://www.jadisetgourmande.fr)
Enter because we see two small tables outside and we want a hot chocolate, is a little late in reality the lab is to close but the boy, who then we will discover be maitre chocolatier, tells us that for us makes an exception and prepares us for a sensational chocolate.
In the small workshop only we and him and then as always we begin to ask a little things, because we always very well supplied but especially we see that behind the casing there is a laboratory and immediately understand that here the chocolate prepares still in an artisan way.
In reality the maitre chocolatier explains to us that Jadis et gourmande is a small chain of artisan laboratories in total are 5 and are located in the main districts of Paris
opened in 1988, the laboratory Jadis et Gourmande has a true philosophy for the production and the preparation of chocolate: creativity must be flanked by quality.
The quality of chocolate is fundamental and all the products are made with pure cocoa butter and covered with the 71 % cocoa.
The maitre tells us how the production of chocolate is a very long crossing stages very important and inevitable, but here the selection of the best cocoa from all over the world it is necessary for the quality of each chocolate signed Jadis et gourmande.
We finish our chocolate, assaggiamo some chocolate and do a ride inside asking a thousand things to the maitre chocolatier that patiently gives us all the answers and then we see that realizes the gift packaging very particular not to miss the occasion and dinners we realize a.
We also track a coffee maker entirely of dark chocolate 90% and an Eiffel Tower with chocolate milk.
If you go to Paris look absolutely one of the points of sale Jadis et gourmande enjoy their hot chocolate and miss in tasting all their chocolates.
At 58 rue Jean Jacques Rousseau is the last of our suggestions and could not be a speakeasy. In the area of Les Halles while we went walking back to the hotel for the event we discovered this speakeasy The Ballroom
In reality as always we have been impressed by the entry and the bodyguard who was outside.
We enter all dark, as practice for these places dedicated a time at prohibition, descend two flights of stairs and enter in a very refined environment. Ceilings with gilded stuccos, walls and velvet sofas red, excellent music, we sit at the bar ( not having booked has already been a miracle have convinced us to enter, then write down but book) and talking with the barman assaggiamo a couple of cocktails that suggests to us him.
With this I and Fabrizio think this time to tell you everything, did you notice ?! We put all the links in the lime ..
A la prochaine fois
Le Petit Rétro
Four season paris
Credits: Isabella Talone | Fabrizio Politi